While certainly not the first attempt at creating a sneaker-loafer hybrid, the 1906L takes the concept to another level by choosing a sneaker as a base that is particularly “sneaker-y” in its techy aesthetic.

The 1906, across its different iterations, features numerous elements known from running shoes of the early 2000s: there’s the mesh upper, adorned with synthetic or leather overlays in a layered look, stabilizing “cages” at the heel and a sole that merges chunky pod elements with a slick runner sole. Most of these elements have been kept for the earlier iterations of the loafer, and here’s where Watanabe’s version sets itself apart.

Watanabe managed to create a shoe that moves beyond simple deconstruction or ironic comment. The loafer successfully reinterprets traditional elements with performance materials and simultaneously substitutes mesh for smooth leather on the upper. It blends seamlessly with the more technical elements, resulting in a form of elegant functionality that extends to the classic monochrome colorways.

Given Junya Watanabe’s standing, it’s more than likely that the 1906 loafers will be a success and sell out fast. Furthermore, the shoes seem to go against the current of low-profile silhouettes with minimalist design. New Balance themselves have already placed their bet, with more loafers likely on the way.

While the Junya Watanabe MAN loafer is creating popcultural momentum, it is not the first time the Japanese designer has brought his vision to sneaker collaborations. His long-lived partnership with New Balance has produced a number of recognizable and diverse sneakers and mules, never falling into the trap of repetition. While the all-black 650 from FW 2023 turns the basketball silhouette into a similarly elegant version of itself, his earlier takes on the 1906 opt for a reduced color palette, emphasizing the techy overlays on the mesh upper.

Speaking of techy: The New Balance’s Niobium Concept 2. Launched as a modular sandal with an open upper, mesh and a trail sole, the Junya Watanabe MAN version foregoes the mesh for a closed upper. A detachable heel strap lets you turn it into a classic mule with the same kind of elegant functionality the 1906L brings to the table.

Apart from New Balance, Watanabe has also recently been working with Oakley Factory Team, for example. Last year’s Flesh slip-on fits his more recent output by combining luxurious suede with neoprene in a monochrome colorway on top of a futuristic looking sole unit. Both parties have more in the pipeline though. For SS25 they’ve cooked up a truly imposing and futuristic sneaker that looks like a blend of ‘90s basketball shoes and Y2K dad sneakers.

But fans of Watanabe’s New Balance collabs need not fret, as next year will also see the arrival of the ultra-low-pro Minimus UX200L in both black and white. And with the designer’s recent collaborative drive (the SS24 presentation featured 18 collabs, for example), there’s sure to be more.